My pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago XIV

Just outside Gonzar

Leaving Gonzar


San Xulian

San Xulian

We survived the cold night and the coffee proved far better than the wine. In Ligonde we stop for breakfast as neither of us ate much the previous night and we feel a bit thin. Next stop Palas de Rei and here the sun lost its battle against the rain. So, out with all the raingear again. Today’s route is luckily mostly woodland, tiny hamlets and small farming communities which makes for easy walking. We therefore carry on despite the rain and at about 14:00 arrive at Casa Domingo.

Casa Domingo

Casa Domingo

The place looks like something out of an Asterix and Obelix cartoon and the warm, friendly atmosphere decides it for us (especially after last night). The place has a real old medieval look and feel to it. The owner tells us that he grew up there and is slowly restoring the place. Part of it at the back is still in ruins. There are all kinds of old farming implements adorning the walls of the restaurant and the beds have got a partition inbetween which provides some privacy (something that is hard to come by on this trip).


dscn2737The rain is still preventing us from doing washing and we realise that by tomorrow we will have to make a plan, no matter the cost or the weather.

There is a group of Dutch people, a Spanish couple, a French family and a mother and son from Canada. The son has picked up a stomach bug and I help out with some medicine. Diarrhoea can really drain your energies if you have to walk all day and I agree with them that he should rather take a taxi tomorrow and get some rest.


I spend the afternoon catching up on my diary, take a short nap and by the time we sit down for supper our spirits are rejuvenated. It is so nice to have company again tonight and we share stories and experiences around the long table. The food is fantastic! Our host brings us two different soups – both of which are exceptional and just what the doctor ordered on this cold evening. This is followed by a huge mixed salad, a warm potato dish and some meatballs in gravy. It is real comfort food and I am overjoyed not to have the usual potato chips on my plate tonight. The meal is ended off with the most delectable dessert and a little liquer to go with the wonderful company.


I’ve learnt on this trip that things don’t always go as one would like. Some days are good, some not so good. One must just learn to deal with whatever comes next as best you can.   We’ve had some really awesome places to stay with magnificent hosts and sometimes you are just happy if you don’t get carried off by bedbugs. I guess it in most part resembles life in general. It is all about how you ride the wave, one cannot control every intricate part of it.

Santiago is now only about 62km away!

Gonzar – Casa Domingo – 20km

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